Emma, our Aussie friend, coined the name. It came from her watching Patricia square herself up with her trekking poles on the rocky trails. On a particularly challenging section, she would make quick moves in order to line up properly and it became a habit.

So this has been quite an amazing accomplishment in its own right. But there’s more to the story and I want to share a little on how this all came to be. Or how we came to be here.

So I’m going to go back in history and expose a couple of decision points in our lives. Probably points we never really thought much about at the time, but that’s what makes up the journey of life, right? And then I think I can tie it together and paint you a better picture of my soul mate.

Why do I want to share any of this? I dunno, I guess it’s because she’s made life grand for me, and we’ve had a grand time together on the adventure. An odyssey of life I suppose. But it’s not because we’ve purposely sought out challenges, maybe it’s more because we like the experiences of adventures. And all the expected and unexpected things that may challenge us are just part of the process of exploring.

Or maybe because we like to see and show others just how big and marvelous the natural world is. A world that includes all the peoples. And many times it shows us ourselves. And we realize that there are other, simpler, different and more important things that go on. And, for some reason, and even after approaching 40 years, we seem to come out of the other side with a story to tell and a gladness at the attempt, whether or not we’d ever do it again.

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We first met in the 1980’s at our workplace when I was fresh out of college. I have always been active and loved the outdoors. Anything adventurous that didn’t cost much money. So backpacking, climbing, canoeing and the like, the harder the better. Patricia, on the other hand, had not had those opportunities and had not done much more than a car or boat camp with her family on summer weekends.

As we got to know each other, it became obvious she was up for any challenge. And, whether good or bad, she seemed ready to follow me just about anywhere and at anytime. Our hikes became extended hikes. And our extended hikes became backpacking trips. I can’t even recall how many adventures we had together in those early years.

One time in the mid-’80’s while we were dating, I asked Patricia if she wanted to go on an overnight backpacking trip into a true wilderness area, the Joyce Kilmer Memorial Forest. She was up for it! So on a blustery, rainy day we drove the old ’79 Dodge three-on-the-tree pickup with the manual steering all the way over to Big Fat Gap in North Carolina. We saddled our big external frame packs, put on our ponchos, and left the truck in the rain.

In wilderness areas, there are no trail markers, only trail signs at the junctions. There are also no bridges, in keeping with the wild ethic. Our goal (my goal, I’m sure she had no idea where we were going) was to hike up alongside Slickrock Creek a few miles and then take the Naked Ground trail up to the saddle for camp. Tomorrow we would come out via the Hangover with resplendent views of the Smokies. An adventure sure to impress!

Did I mention it was late November? And all the leaves were down? Following a trail upstream in downed leaves with no trail markers is actually pretty difficult. Every little tributary has a game trail that looks like the main trail, but wanders off into the forest until it closes in and you have to backtrack. It took us hours to get up to the trail junction for Naked Ground. It rained the whole way.

Looking at the trail sign, I see “Naked Ground 3.1” officially carved into the wood. But down in the lower right corner what catches my eye are the unofficially carved words, “BALL BUSTER“. Hmmm. Maybe Patricia won’t notice.

The Naked Ground trail is steep, with about a 2,800 foot elevation gain in the 3-ish miles. It’s steepest at the top and switchbacks are rare. Patricia, to this day, has a ‘fond memory’ of being able to stand straight up on the trail and actually touch the trail in front of her with her finger.

Oh, this is also bear country, and hunting was in full swing. Partway up the trail, a bear dog joined us. Bear dogs are typically Walker dogs with radio collars so their owners can track them as they run the bear. This guy was lost and quite hungry, and no manner of shooing was going to run him off. He knew we were coming out somewhere and he was going to be a part of it.

The trio made camp about dark. I set up the big dome tent and turned to grab the stakes. When I turned back I could see the entire bottom of the tent as the wind carried it off the saddle like a big kite. Fortunately, the trees eventually pinned it down and we were finally able to crawl in, completely bushed. The food situation was light, but the dog nonetheless enjoyed the remaining chicken soup.

We came all the way out the next day. It had rained the entire time and the clouds were thick with no views to be had. The Hangover Lead trail dropped quickly and steeply and was nearly as bad as the Naked Ground trail. And it was slick, slick, slick from the mud and the leaves. I gave the bear dog to some hunters coming in that said they knew the owner. Once we got home I splurged for a long distance call (remember those?) to the number on the collar just to make sure he made it home okay.

This would have been a good opportunity for Patricia to beg out of future adventures or even decide that maybe she needed to go in a different direction with her future. Fortunately, she did neither.

One more story to get to where I want to go. By 1988, we had saved enough vacation time for some significant travel time Out West. We took my AMC Cherokee and camped every night, exploring as much as we could with no reservations or destinations pinned down.

Patricia and I ended up in the Tetons while the fires raged in Yellowstone that year, it was a major event. Yellowstone was obviously closed, and overnighting in the Tetons was banned too, due to the smoke and fire danger. Disappointed, ‘we’ opted for a long day hike instead. 23 miles to be exact. Up Cascade Creek to Lake Solitude, then across Paintbrush Divide, and down the Paintbrush Canyon trail.

“Well, I don’t want to go back the way we came.”
…
We were married the following spring.

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How lucky can a man be? I am blessed beyond measure with her attitude and willingness to explore, to see new things, to experience new cultures. If I said tomorrow “Hey, do you want to go hike the Andes in Peru in late winter at high altitude?” I’m pretty sure she’d do it.

Oh wait, I actually think the Peru trip was her idea….

But there’s a bit more to the story. Over the years, Patricia has had to work through several physical issues. After a stroke about 20 years ago, we found that she had a Patent Foramen Ovale (PFO), literally a large hole between the upper heart chambers. Something that was supposed to close after birth. The PFO allowed blood returning to the lungs to bypass back into the oxygenated blood, reducing available oxygen and possibly allowing blood clots, normally collected by the lungs, to get to the brain. Amazingly, this was repaired successfully. Patricia could actually feel a difference in her stamina, something she never knew was missing. She’s had chronic lower vertebrae issues for years, possibly stemming from a car accident at a young age. At one point Vanderbilt told her not to come back until she was ready for screws and plates. And for the past two or three years, there have been issues with migraines and other seemingly neurological problems. Last year, plantar fasciitis severely limited our activity traveling around the Great Lakes, and flared up again this year, threatening to derail our odyssey!

Patricia has a strong will and she just doesn’t give up. And with each issue she learned more about herself and how to manage the problems. In short, she’s learned to listen to her body. And it has been amazing to watch her determination pull it all together for this trip. And on the Peruvian Odyssey, it was almost like none of these issues ever existed! Which was good, because we really need to keep our focus on breathing, hahaha!

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What a journey it has been so far! One thing we’ve learned together is that through your life journey you can adapt without compromising who you are. In fact, for a well-lived life, it’s probably a requirement.

Emma’s observation was spot-on. I’ve been working on a ‘badge of accomplishment’ just to remind Patricia that, no matter what the future holds, she can enjoy her status as a Trail Ninja. She’s not beholden to anyone. And now she has all these stories to tell!

Rainbow Mountain has an interesting story. It was only ‘discovered’ around the year 2000, when the changing climate melted what was perennial snow and ice, revealing the colorful minerals underneath. Since the number one income generator for Peru is mineral extraction, the companies were lining up to take advantage of the opportunity.

The local indigenous people were none too happy and launched a protest to keep the heavy industry out of their villages. Surprisingly, the government gave the mountain over to them so that they could manage it for tourism, the second largest income generator in Peru.

In 2016 or so, the four communities on the way to Rainbow Mountain improved the road, built restroom facilities, parking areas, and trails for the climb. And what I think was a smart move, created a horse trail parallel to the hiking trail on the lower slope. This allowed the locals to run a horseback taxi service to the base of the peak and, with the horses being on a separate trail, kept the footpath in good shape and enjoyable. It’s obvious that the endeavor has become an important income stream for these remote communities.

The mountain drive to the upper parking lot was bare dirt but nicely maintained and graded. No guard rails here! As we rolled up through the fog and clouds, we popped out under a winter sky. It had snowed during the night above 15,000 feet and the scenery was simply breathtaking.

“Oh, so you know Ruben?” David asked me.

“Oh yeah, Ruben and I go way back,” I replied.

“Really? How far back?”

“Saturday.”

We both laughed, but it certainly seemed like a long time now. And according to him, we were his Champion Team!

Oh the sky, the sky.

The morning sky and mountain snow were blinding without sunglasses. And the high ice crystals refracted the sunlight into an unbelievable display. I’ve seen ice halos before, but never like this! And it was changing quickly.

The Sun is sitting at the center of two halos. The circular one is a 22-degree halo. But the flattened one around it is called a circumscribed halo and it is tangent to the first at the top and bottom. The big arc that passes through the Sun is a parhelic circle. If you ever see the bright spots that are on either side of the Sun on a wintry day, they’re called Sun Dogs because they dog the Sun. They would be at the intersection of the parhelic arc and the 22-degree halo in the picture.

But there are two more that I’ve never seen. The rainbow arcs in the lower corners of the picture are called infralateral halos, and I think are pretty rare due to the meteorologic conditions required. These two were bright enough to reveal rainbow colors, and arced away from the Sun. So Rainbow Mountain has rainbows all over it!

And even higher in the sky, it looks like I could see the entirety of the parhelic circle, something I’ve never seen.

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Heading for the Top!

Once again, it all seems to be in our favor! The beauty of the morning snow is melting away, and it’s just a gorgeous day.

It was a special moment at the top when we came back together. The literal high point of our trip and just a glorious day. And it marks a turning point in our odyssey. It’s been pretty challenging here in the Andes and we’ve had to work hard, adapting to the situations as they come.

Ah, the mountain energy! Can you feel it?

We made our way down to the trail junction to Red Valley. This was another option included in our odyssey that most don’t do, I think partly because of the effort required for the Rainbow peak. I’m feeling pretty great though, and Patricia decided to take the ‘taxi’ down close to the buses while Ruben and I and a young man from New York chose to go see it.

It was less than a mile along the mountain side to Red Valley, not a bad grade at all. There was a stone gate at the ridge where the locals were collecting tickets. As we crossed the ridge, I’ll have to say, the Red Valley was pretty stunning in the remaining snow.

Yet another stellar day among an unending stream of stellar days! Tomorrow we become legitimate tourists, hopping on the bus for an 10-hour ride to Puno on the banks of Lake Titicaca.

We slept in! All the way to 6:30!

According to the CDC, 80% of illness from waterborne pathogens come from the hands or improperly washed goods, NOT the drinking water.

It was a crisp morning, and by now we were getting used to the city vibe. We walked the streets and checked out a few shops.

As we walked around town, we ended up back at the square. I was needing to exchange some money for the next few days. About a week ago, we went down Avenue El Sol, where there were many money exchanges. A bit nervous, I found a little shop that looked legit and even had a protective glass for the cashier, so it felt pretty safe. I think the exchange rate was around 3.5% for my $300.

Today though, I’m an old pro! While at the plaza, I spied a money exchange on Portal Belen and walked in.

“Can you exchange $200?” I asked.

“Si!” said the lady behind the counter.

I handed her two one hundred dollar bills and she promptly handed them to a young lady on my side of the counter who quickly disappeared out the front door.

Huh. I did not see that coming.

After an extended period of time, I asked sheepishly, “Where did she go?”

“She’ll be back soon,” I was assured.

Sure enough, in about five more minutes she reappeared with the solas. I think the exchange rate was 3.73%. So I believe I just paid a quarter of a percent for the young lady to wait in line at a local bank or another money exchange. Live and learn!

Back when we first met, Ruben suggested that we need to check out Museo Inka, the largest collection of artifacts in the country I believe. This sounded like a great thing to do today!

Ruben says he loves President Obama! The Peruvian government was suing Yale University to return thousands of artifacts collected during the rediscovery of Machu Picchu in 1912.

Peruvian President Alan Garcia even asked Obama for help in the dispute. The artifacts were returned and many of them were placed in the museum.

The museum did not disappoint! Such fine pottery and playful styles. Well worth a visit for anyone in Cusco.

I want to make special note of this last picture with the two-burner cook stove. We saw this type of stove across Peru and it is a pretty cool design. You basically feed long pieces of wood in through the slot as they burn so you don’t have to cut to length! And you have two burners to work with.

Also, I was curious at the collection of quite large clay vessels in the museum with bluntly pointed bottoms. Seems they’d be a pain since they don’t stand up. But looking at the photograph above the cook stove I now see why. So you can carry them on your back! Genius!

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We had some family over for a visit a couple of weeks ago and were telling them about our odyssey. Larry commented that “They never invented the wheel!” And pretty much across the land, this style of carrying things is like that in the photograph. We watched an old man pulling the steep grade to his home on Llactapata. He had a colorful blanket tied at the corner and slung over his shoulders with the knot across his chest. He looked tired and was struggling to get the load off. Sergio, our guide, rushed over to help. He pulled out a big daypack….and a 20# canister of propane weighing about 40 pounds!

While there are certainly an outrageous number of uses for the wheel, they are of limited value for transportation in many parts of the Andes. The mountains have ‘shoulders’ and actually steepen toward the river valleys. All the land is hand-worked, and much of the cropland is on the mountain shoulders with just a footpath for access. Even the construction crews do much by hand, it’s too steep and narrow for big equipment and just not wheel-friendly. Inca flat is a term we sometimes heard. Their version of flat and ours differs greatly.

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Well, we managed to fill up the day! We went back to the hotel and rested a bit and then went looking for a new water bottle and some tasty food. Lo and behold, we ran into Ruben! He had just parked his motorcycle and was about to give another tour bunch the lowdown on tomorrow’s activities. He suggested we go to Mama Seldonia for dinner.

And so we did.

Late yesterday, Ruben and Big Al checked on Patricia to see how she was doing with the stomach bug. Ruben brought some meds and electrolytes, feeling pretty confident the bug would be vanquished before Rainbow Mountain in two days.

In the meantime, they rearranged our schedule so that we could get the most out of the day before our scheduled train ride in the afternoon. The 5am departure “to beat the crowds” became an 8am thing for me while Patricia recuperated. This was incredibly convenient…and a testament to the Alpaca team to take care of us.

As expected, Big Al is at the hotel on time. Patricia is doing better, and while not up to the hike, gives me the “high sign” to go ahead with the day. Big Al and I board the bus and ride the tourist trail to Machu Picchu.

Most visitors to Machu Picchu arrive via bus from Aguas Calientes. While I’m not disparaging their efforts, it’s in stark contrast to spending a few days in the Andes hiking and peeking, walking and yearning, looking and not seeing. And then…watching it unfold.

Patricia and I have already had an epic odyssey. If we had not ever seen this place we would have felt its presence always. It’s considered to be the second and final center of the Incan rule, after Cusco. Some accounts treat it as merely a ‘retreat’ and a place for the leadership to meet. It’s probably impossible to know. And it’s probably a case where modern arrogance should be very careful. What I see, now that I’ve spent so many days ‘sneaking’ up on it with tours to Sacsaywaman and ruins in Sacred Valley and Cusco, is a very stable system of governance. A happy people, a learned people, and a people still with an eye on the future.

I mean, over 500 years! Think about that. But also consider that even that couldn’t happen unless there was a stable and thriving “before.” Take chuño potatoes for example. It’s a method of freeze-drying potatoes that dates back several centuries before the Inca rule. The Inca didn’t destroy, they accommodated, they learned, and they moved forward.

Access to Machu Picchu is limited to 5,000 people per day, including guides.
Huayna Picchu allows only 400 per day.

All of the backcountry around Machu Picchu, including the Short Inca Trail, is limited to 500 people, including guides and porters.

Another shout out to Hobnail Trekking and Alpaca Expeditions for having us “in the queue” so that we could experience these things! The limited availability can be a big challenge when traveling.

As we chatted about everything from Incan history to boiling water, we moved quickly up the stone steps. It was so much fun to stretch the legs and the lungs! We passed a lot of people. It’s amazing what a few days in the Andes can do for you! Big Al timed us and said we set a record of 37 minutes to the top, hahaha!

I noticed that he faltered a couple of times on the way up. And at a slightly sketchy stone slab at the top, he had trouble with his footing.

“Man, I can’t stop thinking about my shoes! It’s causing me to stumble!”

We both paused and laughed. I’ve probably messed this young man up for life.

Such fascinating granite stonework! Steps and rooms carved into solid rock. Stone rings and square/cylinder cuts for roof supports. In one photo, the wall to the right is smoother than the left to indicate a difference in status between the two dwellings.

The water management was most intriguing. There are channels cut into the stone that carry water in all sorts of directions. There is one ‘room’ with a fountain and rectangular pool cut from the bedrock. The water flows out through a channel. But, the channel stops just short of the pool and tunnels in from underneath, apparently to keep the integrity or aesthetic intact. So playful and so cool. I’d love to come back here and spend more time.

Big Al promised me I’d be back at La Cabana by 1pm and we arrived a little early. Patricia had slept all morning, and the hotel made accommodations for her while we were gone.

VistaDome to Ollantaytambo

While on the train, we were treated with a fashion show and some local dance and costumes.

The attendant came through and suggested, since there were empty seats, that we could move to the other side of the train for the best view. A thoughtful gesture for sure, but we stayed in place and let others move over.

If this had been the beginning of our journey or part of a short motorized tour, we’d have certainly moved. But after being on the Andes for six days, we were happy to let others garner the better views.

Not that my nose wasn’t pressed against the window from time to time…

When we arrived in Ollantaytambo, Big Al was there to greet us. He directed us to the Alpaca Expeditions bus waiting to ferry us to Cusco. It was at this point that we realized how big an operation this local company is! Over 70 guides we are told. Ollantaytambo is a hub for all kinds of outdoor adventures and Alpaca green was everywhere!

We really liked the buses that carried us around Peru. Very modern and comfortable. Better than flying! All of them, whether large or small, were very sleek and had these cool mirrors. Having them pitched forward like insect antennae allowed the drivers to see around the corners on the narrow streets and keep a slim profile.

On our bus, all of the Alpaca gear was loaded first chair! Unfortunately, this left no room for Big Al and he sat in the doorway. Mainly because he could move out of the way as necessary and because he was a guide-in-training and probably didn’t have his “time” in yet.

By the end of the day, Patricia had not rebounded from the stomach bug. We found a farmacia in Cusco and the lady seemed to know exactly what she needed, something to conquer parasites like Giardia. So she’s started on a three-day round of meds and more electrolytes. Hopefully it will kick in soon!

Tomorrow we have a well-deserved day off! Nothing on the schedule at all. What will we do?

It’s Day 9 of our 17-day odyssey. We just finished our 5-day/4-night Salktantay Trek late yesterday and said goodbye to our new friends. Today, we’re finally going to touch the gray granite of Machu Picchu! It’s hard to imagine that, in just a day and a half, we will have hiked from that grand view on Llactapata. Down to the river, up the river valley, and then up to this, the last and final center of the Incan Empire and one of the Seven Wonders of the World.

But today we’ll do what is known as the Short Inca Trail, it’s only about 7 miles long. But wait…there’s three or four thousand feet of climbing involved with all the ups and downs (including the gringo killer approaching the peak at Intipunku, the Sun Gate). Oh, and we’ll need to walk the rail bed in the morning along the Urubamba River for about 5 miles just to get to the trailhead.

We didn’t need our flashlights for very long and it was sweet walking in the twilight and listening to the birds. Big Al pointed out an Andean cock-of-the-rock, native to Peru. It’s a spectacular bird and darn near impossible to photograph in the trees!

Now this is some fine trail! And…it can be a bit disconcerting if you look just past the tall grasses and plants on the downhill side! But so much fun!

The Short Inca Trail leads to Wiñay Wayna, which means “forever young” in Quechua. The Inca built a home for their leader here. It was never found by the Spaniards and was in a pristine state upon its re-discovery.

Wiñay Wayna is just another mind-boggling spectacle that just seems to happen everyday and around every turn. The Inca were so adept at carving a living out of these steep mountains. More than a living, a fruitful and rewarding way of life.

The terraces were built to raise food for the royal family. At one end of the terraces are a series of stair-stepped spring boxes. The water is provided at the top via an aqueduct from a spring located in a cove and works its way down each terrace to the living quarters. Water can be channeled where necessary.

And, after all these centuries, it’s still running!

What a magnificent place!

“Jefferson! Do you feel the energy!?”

As I walk up from the rear, Ruben is at the head of the group, showing them a primordial fern tree that is just stunning. His comment, of course, is referring to my bare feet. He gets a big thumbs up from me. Yeah, I feel it.

This has turned out to be…surprise…another full day! The climb was more difficult than expected and the heat and humidity were the highest we’ve experienced so far.

Reaching the Sun Gate was such a reward! Today we actually climbed and skirted around Machu Picchu Mountain, opposite Llactapata, to reach it. We could now look over to the west and see our camp from just two nights ago!

There was more haze this afternoon than we’ve seen to date. But we soon started hearing thunder and watched a short-lived storm quickly clear the air, just for us! The sunbeams were streaming down and we saw a rainbow!

But even an idyllic life has its ups and downs. Apparently Patricia had picked up a stomach bug and, with all the extended exertion, it had chosen this moment to act! She needed to get down fast and Ruben put Big Al on the task. We hurried down to the visitor center.

How thankful can we be that she made it to the bus station at the end of this day? Ruben made sure we got on the next bus down and we made it back to the hotel. We couldn’t make dinner, so Ruben brought me a pizza and some medicine and electrolytes for Patricia.

One thing about an odyssey, things can change quickly. But our guides adapt quickly too. Our next day was to be a tour of Machu Picchu, so we actually had a little flexibility. We decided to see how things were in the morning. For now, we’ll just hunker down and see how the medicine performs.

Today’s bus ride from Machu Picchu is the first time we’ve been in a vehicle since the Glass Cabanas and we’ve covered a little over 60 miles through the mountains by foot. Not a bad way to find Machu Picchu.

Oh, and Ruben says that this trail was harder than upcoming Rainbow Mountain. That sounds promising.