Late yesterday, Ruben and Big Al checked on Patricia to see how she was doing with the stomach bug. Ruben brought some meds and electrolytes, feeling pretty confident the bug would be vanquished before Rainbow Mountain in two days.
In the meantime, they rearranged our schedule so that we could get the most out of the day before our scheduled train ride in the afternoon. The 5am departure “to beat the crowds” became an 8am thing for me while Patricia recuperated. This was incredibly convenient…and a testament to the Alpaca team to take care of us.
As expected, Big Al is at the hotel on time. Patricia is doing better, and while not up to the hike, gives me the “high sign” to go ahead with the day. Big Al and I board the bus and ride the tourist trail to Machu Picchu.
It’s important to keep in mind that most visitors to Machu Picchu arrive via bus from Aguas Calientes. While I’m not disparaging their efforts, it’s in stark contrast to spending a few days in the Andes hiking and peeking, walking and yearning, looking and not seeing. And then…watching it unfold.
Patricia and I have already had an epic odyssey. If we had not ever seen this place we would have felt its presence always. It’s considered to be the second and final center of the Incan rule, after Cusco. Some accounts treat it as merely a ‘retreat’ and a place for the leadership to meet. It’s probably impossible to know. And it’s probably a case where modern arrogance should be very careful. What I see, now that I’ve spent so many days ‘sneaking’ up on it with tours to Sacsaywaman and ruins in Sacred Valley and Cusco, is a very stable system of governance. A happy people, a learned people, and a people still with an eye on the future.
I mean, over 500 years! Think about that. But also consider that even that couldn’t happen unless there was a stable and thriving “before.” Take chuño potatoes for example. It’s a method of freeze-drying potatoes that dates back several centuries before the Inca rule. The Inca didn’t destroy, they accommodated, they learned, and they moved forward.
Due to the limited time in our situation, I needed to make a decision. Either I could roam the grounds at Machu Picchu or I could take advantage of my ticket and climb to the peak of Huayna Picchu (Young Mountain). Big Al was up for it, so we gave it a go.
Access to Machu Picchu is limited to 5,000 people per day, including guides.
Huayna Picchu allows only 400 per day.
All of the backcountry around Machu Picchu, including the Short Inca Trail, is limited to 500 people, including guides and porters.
Another shout out to Hobnail Trekking and Alpaca Expeditions for having us “in the queue” so that we could experience these things! The limited availability can be a big challenge when traveling.
It was fun walking and talking with Big Al. He’s a guide-in-training and really is looking to build his skills. And he’s eager to learn.
He kept peppering me with questions on barefoot hiking. I tried to explain some of the negatives of wearing shoes. But in the end the best I could say was that, regardless of any health benefits, I just thoroughly enjoyed feeling my way along the trail. Especially a trail such as this.
As we chatted about everything from Incan history to boiling water, we moved quickly up the stone steps. It was so much fun to stretch the legs and the lungs! We passed a lot of people. It’s amazing what a few days in the Andes can do for you! Big Al timed us and said we set a record of 37 minutes to the top, hahaha!
I noticed that he faltered a couple of times on the way up. And at a slightly sketchy stone slab at the top, he had trouble with his footing.
“Man, I can’t stop thinking about my shoes! It’s causing me to stumble!”
We both paused and laughed. I’ve probably messed this young man up for life.
Due to our quick pace, we had some time to look at part of the east side of Machu Picchu. This is the Sun Temple, perched on a boulder with windows facing the summer and winter solstices.
From the other side, there is a ‘cracked’ wall in front of the Sun Temple. But upon closer inspection it’s the bolder to the left that has moved. Maybe this is one way the stonework accommodated earthquakes and shifts.
Such fascinating granite stonework! Steps and rooms carved into solid rock. Stone rings and square/cylinder cuts for roof supports. In one photo, the wall to the right is smoother than the left to indicate a difference in status between the two dwellings.
The water management was most intriguing. There are channels cut into the stone that carry water in all sorts of directions. There is one ‘room’ with a fountain and rectangular pool cut from the bedrock. The water flows out through a channel. But, the channel stops just short of the pool and tunnels in from underneath, apparently to keep the integrity or aesthetic intact. So playful and so cool. I’d love to come back here and spend more time.
And then there’s this. Built on a bolder at a crazy angle, it’s been there for centuries. Just amazing.
A wider pan reveals what appears to be the shape of a condor, with this being one wing. It’s pretty abstract but why not?
Big Al promised me I’d be back at La Cabana by 1pm and we arrived a little early. Patricia had slept all morning, and the hotel made accommodations for her while we were gone.
VistaDome to Ollantaytambo
Here I am practicing for my new job as Andean porter! I think I can do it! All of our gear for the 17-day odyssey.
Fortunately, it was a short walk from the hotel to the train station. There was a seriously long line at the boarding station, but once an officer saw our tickets, we skipped to the front.
It was fun riding the train! The glass roof gave us a great view of the river gorge for the three hour trip.
While on the train, we were treated with a fashion show and some local dance and costumes.
The attendant came through and suggested, since there were empty seats, that we could move to the other side of the train for the best view. A thoughtful gesture for sure, but we stayed in place and let others move over.
If this had been the beginning of our journey or part of a short motorized tour, we’d have certainly moved. But after being on the Andes for six days, we were happy to let others garner the better views.
Not that my nose wasn’t pressed against the window from time to time…
When we arrived in Ollantaytambo, Big Al was there to greet us. He directed us to the Alpaca Expeditions bus waiting to ferry us to Cusco. It was at this point that we realized how big an operation this local company is! Over 70 guides we are told. Ollantaytambo is a hub for all kinds of outdoor adventures and Alpaca green was everywhere!
We really liked the buses that carried us around Peru. Very modern and comfortable. Better than flying! All of them, whether large or small, were very sleek and had these cool mirrors. Having them pitched forward like insect antennae allowed the drivers to see around the corners on the narrow streets and keep a slim profile.
On our bus, all of the Alpaca gear was loaded first chair! Unfortunately, this left no room for Big Al and he sat in the doorway. Mainly because he could move out of the way as necessary and because he was a guide-in-training and probably didn’t have his “time” in yet.
After arriving in Cusco, we wandered down the Inca street and found a doorway into a courtyard. And found the coolest little pizza place with yet another giant wood-fired oven. You can just make out the stainless hood in front of it.
Credit card accepted, but tips in soles are best!
By the end of the day, Patricia had not rebounded from the stomach bug. We found a farmacia in Cusco and the lady seemed to know exactly what she needed, something to conquer parasites like Giardia. So she’s started on a three-day round of meds and more electrolytes. Hopefully it will kick in soon!
Tomorrow we have a well-deserved day off! Nothing on the schedule at all. What will we do?